Jeff

Thursday, 13 July 2023

On our way to Odda

So as expected we woke up to the rain and grey skies which didn’t look like they were going to go anywhere fast. We then remembered we had left our chairs outside so Rich got them in (soaking wet) and off we trotted north stopping to get some shopping in and service the van. The drive was lovely due to the different scenery we past from mountains and fjords and through lots of tunnels. We had to catch a ferry across one of the fjords but it was seamless and we pretty much managed to drive straight on. We continued to stop at some view points, to also have a rest, before getting to our camperstop for the night which is off the main road and down a little country road. We ended up driving for about 4.5 hours and it has rained on and off for most of the day. It looks like it also due to rain tomorrow but we have plans and we don’t mind getting a little wet

The next morning we got up fairly early and headed out along the country road to get back on the main road but we soon came across a herd of goats having their morning naps on the road. I got out to try and move them on but they were having none of my attempts to shoo them and I didn’t want to get that close. Rich then told me to jump in the drivers seat and he would shoo them if I was too scared (im my defence they have horns that they don’t seem scared to use and kids with them). He managed to move them and took over driving again before we rounded a courner and met the next group of goats but as the group wasn’t as big I managed to move them enough Rich could squeeze by but then we met the third group and I was back in the drivers seat and Rich moved them on. Finally we could see the end of the country lane having taken way longer than expected to get out we quickly continued on to our first stop which was Langfossen, a large waterfall which is next to the side of the road. It was really tall and a lot larger than the waterfall we saw earlier in the trip. After walking around for a while we headed back to Jeff and continued on up the road to the next waterfall, Latefossen which is where two rivers both cascade down the rockface and meet in the river below. They were really powerful and sent a spray of mist around the area. There was also a small waterfall just up the road, so we wandered up to have a look at that one as well.

We then jumped back into Jeff and parked just outside Odda which is a town on a large fjord and decided to go for a hike as it seemed to have stopped raining for a little bit. This was a big mistake! Rather than parking in the car park (and paying £15) for the hike we stayed in our camper stop for the night and walked up, this was an uphill walk of around an hour (almost 5km) and then we started the hike which is around 5.5km hike to get to the bottom of the glacier (you cant actually go on it or touch it but you do get fairly close). To start with the hike was fairly easy going through meadows (with highland cows) and forests but after a couple of kilometres the path became more rocky with higher climbs neared and then we started with the bridges to cross the rivers (these ranged from small single planks to rickety wooden swing bridges) to ropes to help you climb up and over the different rock faces. As you can imagine this started to send my fear of heights into overdrive but we continued up and I managed to scale up all the climbs and we were rewarded with a spectacular view of the glacier. There was a sign that said stop at the top but then just behind it and over a small river was a bridge to cross the bigger river, which we were tempted to cross but decided against it and started the climb back down. During most of the climb up it had rained gently and anytime it stopped Rich would say “look its letting up” only for it to start again 5 minutes later.

Anyway we carried on down and I think it was harder than the climb up, mostly because everything was wet and fairly slippery but also because the rocks were quite steep and ideally you should abseil down them with the rope but this scared me so I found other ways to climb down. The rain continued for the whole climb and walk down but really started to come down as we got to the car park, this made knowing that we had a 5km walk back to the car really annoying. We were already wet from the climb down but the walk back to the van ensured we were soaking. When we were less than 0.5km away from the van a very nice couple in a rental car did offer us a life but by then we were as wet as you could possibliy get and only a few minutes from the van so we declined (plus we didn’t want to soak their car). As soon as we were back in the van the heating and hot water were put to max and we got changed and had hot showers to warm and dry ourselves. Then we had to hang our wet clothes around the van and hope they dry before tomorrow.

The plan had been to do a very long all day hike tomorrow to Trolltunga (28km round trip) but given that the weather is due to be the same we are rethinking this idea and considering waiting a couple of days before doing the walk.

Over night we got some thunder and a lot of rain, which made us glad that we have decided not to walk today, instead we have managed to do some washing, go on a short bike ride (in the late afternoon when it cleared up for a bit) and sort out bits in the van. Its been a bit of a quiet one but we have got some admin and our washing done and started planning our next steps for once we have done the walk. We aren’t doing the long walk tomorrow as it is still due to rain all day but then Friday looks completely clear so our plan is to head up on Friday then head out of this town.

The view down the fjord in Odda

An old church in Odda

the river on the way to the Glacier

the climb down, it was steep and slippy

One of the many climbs up

Rich enjoying the walk

A view of the Glacier, it was very blue and beautiful

another tongue of the glacier

A ladder to climb, this was easier than the rope sections

A view down the valley from the top

Rich crossing one of the many bridges

Highland calves at the start of the walk

An old house at the start of the walk

the roots of a tree which has been brough down stream due to the power of the water

A view of the fjord from our 5kn walk before the hike

The fjord was soo green

another Fjord view with the glacier at the back

The waterfall near latfossen

Latefossen waterfalls

Langfossen waterfall

Another view of Langfossen waterfall

The unmoveable goats

A cloudy view down the fjord on our long drive

A time it stopped raining while we were driving

Pulpit Rock

So the next morning we were up at 5am as the Pulpit Rock walk is very popular and you have to get started early to avoid the crowds. They used to say 7am was early enough to avoid the crowds but now they are saying 5am or 6am is better. The issue we had is our camperstop is at the bottom of the hill and the car park is 5km and 200 meters up and charges £20 for anything over 2 hours. So the plan was to cycle up the hill and then start the walk which is a 4km walk with a 500 meter climb. So off we cycled and while I had my bike on max power (and all the bags for the walk) poor Rich had no support. We made it up but it was hard and then we started the walk which travels through meadows, forests and over cliff tops. It was a stunning walk with three different climbs to complete the 500 meter ascent. The views over the fjord was stunning and once we reached the top there was around 30 – 50 people there but it was by no means as busy as we have seen in the photos. We admired the views and took some pictures, including the normal ones near the edge of the cliff before sitting down for some breakfast. We got chatting to another British couple while there and exchanged places we must go before climbing a little higher to get the views from above pulpit rock and then we headed back down, although we did get a little bit lost at the top and struggled to find the path back to the tock. We didn’t time the climb down brilliantly as the tour groups had started to arrive so we met many of them on the way down and due to the small width of the path we often had to wait for several people to come up before we could go down in several sections. It was interesting to see how people were coping with the walk as it is a demanding walk and some people were obviously not prepared for how difficult it was.

We made it up to the top in 1 hour 18 minutes and it took about 1 hour 20 down because of the people coming up and stopping to take photos but once we were down we headed to the lake which was nearby for a swim as the temperature was soaring and the walk had made us hot. We had a lovely little swim in the lake before heading back up to the bikes. Apart from a small section of uphill right at the start the rest of the ride was downhill and great fun. We managed to get to around 50km/h for sections of it and were down at the camperstop in no time.

I made some lunch, we had a hot shower and charged my bike battery back up before heading to Lysefjord, which is the fjord you can see from pulpit rock, where we planned to spend the rest of the day. We were lucky to find a parking spot, as someone was just leaving, and parked up almost opposite a small beach on the fjord and decided to get our chairs out and chill on the beach all afternoon with dips in the fjord to keep us cool.

The next day we got the paddleboard out and paddled from our little beach to pulpit rock so we could see it from below and I have to admit it was less impressive from the water than I thought it would be. We then paddled back and went into some of the coves around the fjord and then back to Jeff.

We had to plan what to do next and the issue is going to be weather, while it is beautiful today next week is going to be rain every day. So we have decided to spend the day on the beach today and then head north, which is going to take 4 hours, tomorrow in the rain.

A lake on the walk up to Pulpit rock, it looked lovely and we were tempted for a swim

The view down the fjord from the top

Me being brave on Pulpit Rock

The drop down!

Rich sat on pulpit rock

It was a lovely sunny day for the walk

us both on the edge of the rock

another view down the fjord

and another

Pulpit rock from above, this was still quiet and I wouldnt want to be there when its busy

The lake at the bottom where we went for a lovely refreshing swim

The beach at our new camperstop for the night (turned out to be 2 nights)

sunset view from Jeff

Paddleboarding down the fjord

Rich doesnt like selfies and it makes me do them more!

that square bit of Rock is Pulpit rock from below

Looking up at the cliff makes you feel small

a jelly fish we spotted, we didnt want to get too close

The gorgeous coves on the fjord

Another beach view before we leave

Friday, 7 July 2023

3 hikes in 3 days

The next morning we got up and headed down to the jetty area of the town where there was swimming opportunities, a large diving board and hot showers. Given that it was early and not quite warm enough for a cold swim we had a shower and then headed on to the next location for a hike at Brufjell which is supposed to have pot holes in the rocks from glaciers. When we started the hike the mist was still rolling in and as we climbed we managed to climb into the mist as it was continually up to start with. From the signs we had planned to take the whole circular route but we quickly met a family who said one part of the walk was closed so we had to change routes onto the other side. As we continued the walk there was an optional detour to a view point which we took to see a small light house on the cliff edge which gave some great views and we met a Italian water dog, who was very nervous of new people with a nice couple also doing the walk.

We continued on the walk (getting a little lost sometimes) and some of the walk got a little sketchy with grab handles and sheer cliff sections. There was a climbing section which gave me a little panic attack due to the sheer cliff climb needed and the fact that there was nothing to protect you from the edge. I got over it and made the climb and we continued on until we got to the section where the path splits, an easy path with a lot less to see or the expert one. I was thinking how can it get much harder! But I also knew that it probably could given the Nordics love of outdoors. We (including the swiss couple with the dog) all decided that we would give the start of the black trail ago and see how it was before we turned onto the other path. We got down the first bit which was fine and then we rounded the corner and saw a big yellow warning sign saying steep decline, descend at your own risk. That was enough to put me off and the dog couldn’t do it either so I stayed at the top with the Swiss woman and the dog while Rich and her partner headed on down. We were chatting and I was getting lots of attention from the dog while we sat there for what seemed like ages waiting for them to reappear. In the meantime we saw 1 group come up and 1 couple try to go down and swifty retreat back saying it was too slippery. Luckily they did both eventually resurface and looked a bit hot and sweaty and explained that the route down was difficult and was slippery and steep with no safety precautions, if they slipped they were in deep trouble. There were handles in the rocks which acted as ladders to climb up and down next to a waterfall to help negotiate the steep cliff walls. There were 4 potholes in total that they went to and they progressively got bigger and had good views out to sea. While I would have loved to have seen the potholes I’m also happy I didn’t attempt it as it doesn’t sound like something I would have enjoyed

Once the boys had rested for a short time we all headed back off (firstly in the wrong direction) and onwards on a small section of loop before returning to the path and some of the steep climbs we had already done.

Once back we headed to the van and had lunch as the walk was longer than expected and we were starving and then packed up and headed to our stop for the night in Jossingfjord. We stopped along the way to take some pictures as the scenery around here is amazing and once at the stop for the evening we got our swimsuits on and went for the cold dip we missed this morning before having dinner.

The next morning we got up fairly early to discover that the washing we had left out was dry but Rich’s walking trousers were missing. We could not figure out where they went (it wasn’t windy and they weren’t anywhere near the van) and after 10 minutes of looking we gave in and headed down the road a little to the view point and start of the next hike called Kobolten which is a little version of Kjeragbolten and is essentially a boulder stuck between two cliff faces. The hike is supposed to be a moderate hike ability wise which should make it similar to yesterday’s hike but without the expert section of ladders and it started just off the car park and took us up through the hills and over many boulders for just over 2km (4km round trip). It was very beautiful with views over Jossingfjord but it was hard going. We eventually got to the boulder and Rich, with trepidation, got onto it for some photos and quickly got back off and to the relative safety of the cliff. We had a short break and enjoyed the views a little more before heading back to the car park. We walked straight past the car park to the next place on my list which was tunnelsto which is a road tunnel with a sectioned off footpath within the tunnel and here are some spaces for people to rent (or bring their own) hammoks and spend the night. The footpath section has large holes overlooking the fjord and the waterfall and it was lovely to look at but I was more than happy to spend the night in the van where it was warm.

We then headed back to the van and down to Helleren where there are some houses which have been there since the 1800s (although they believe that there have been settlements there since the 1500s) and are sheltered by a large overhanging rock. This rock gives them shelter, so they have never had proper roofs. we walked around the houses (only one was open) and it was interesting to see the history but then we headed back to the van and continued on to a town called Egersund where we again managed to have a free hot shower, get some shopping in before we headed to our stop for the night at Trollpikken.

The next morning I made Rich get up early and get the last hike done as it was a family friendly 4.5km (round trip) easy route and while there were some boulders to climb over it was a quick 40 minutes to Trollpikken (which translates as Troll penis) and you can see why its got that name when you look at it. Rich managed to climb on it and I took some photos and then and then I climbed up there. It wasn’t an easy climb, I had to climb up one set of boulders, down to another set and then back up and the height differences between the boulders was larger than me but eventually (and with Rich’s help) I made it up there and before I had a panic attack about the height and lack of solid ground he popped down, took a photo and came back up to help me back off and back down to the ground. Afterwards we hot footed it back to the van in around 25 minutes, as it was down hill, and drove off to Stavenger which is the fourth largest city in Norway with a stop for breakfast and a swim in a lake for Rich. Once we got to Stavenger we parked up we walked into the old town which had a large tour group from a cruise liner walking around so we didn’t stay in that section too long (although long enough for Rich to spot the water slide on the cruise ship which is clear as you come out of the side of the ship before you head back in.

We then carried on walking around the town and walked to Fargegaten which is the most colourful street in Norway and carried on around the city seeing murals and popping into some shops. We managed to find a shop and got Rich some new hiking trousers (which weren’t too expensive) and in the shop was a beautiful puppy who I had to fuss. I could have stayed with her all day, she was soo sweet but onwards we must. We walked around for a couple of hours before heading back to the car and driving on to Sverd I fjell which are three large swords in stone near the town. This was also where we were staying for the night with lots of other campers including two sets of Brits (we don’t see them often)

The next morning we went for a run around the lake and past the swords before using the outdoor gym (only the second one we have found in Norway) going for a swim in the lake and then bundled ourselves in the van and headed off towards our next destination in Preikstolen. We plan to spend the afternoon at a camperstop and have an early night before a very early morning walk to pulpit rock tomorrow. In the meantime we have WIFI for the first time in weeks so we are catching up on admin and actually getting time to upload photos.